Bolivia by J. W. WESTPHAL

Review and Herald Publishing Association · Tacoma Park Station, Washington, D.C. · Jul 1, 1909

Bolivia

By J. W. WESTPHAL

It is two years since the Bolivia Mission was opened. Elder Eduardo W. Thomann has been the superintendent and only worker, and much of his time has been occupied with editorial and translating work. Hence the time devoted to field work has been limited. A good work has been done in getting the Señales de los Tiempos into the hands of people. Public efforts have been made principally in Cochabamba, a city of forty thousand inhabitants, located at an altitude of eight thousand feet, in a fertile valley four days by mule from Oruro, the nearest railway station, and Quilla-quallo, a few leagues distant. The result is that several are keeping the Sabbath in both places, but they have not fully identified themselves with us as yet.

I made my first visit to Bolivia in March, on my way to the General Conference. With all the unpleasantnesses, there are many things of interest to be seen, and romantic experiences await the traveler. As one enters from Chile on the west, there is at first only barren desert. Later, while still desert, there are lofty extinct volcanoes, with their dark, gaping craters plainly in sight. Only St. Michael is smoking. In the great mountain-like piles of lava here and there, testimony of awful eruptions of prehistoric times is given. The great mountains and plateau of Bolivia are all plainly of earthquake origin. What must have been the awfulness of the scene when, in connection with the flood, this occurred. It is no wonder Satan trembled for his existence.

Nearly all the large cities of Bolivia lie at an altitude of twelve thousand feet and upward. It takes time to become accustomed to this rare atmosphere, and to weak hearts it is dangerous, and may be fatal. The least exertion brings a feeling of suffocation to the newcomer, and many a night I was awakened, or could not sleep, because of this feeling.

Let a new arrival exert himself in a thirty to forty-five mile daily muleback ride, and it is quite enough to exhaust him. This was my experience. I rode about one hundred twenty miles in three days, sometimes crossing mountains at an altitude of fourteen thousand feet, eating food indescribably hot with red pepper, and sleeping on an uneven earth floor, in an Indian hut, with one blanket, and fleas, and guinea-pigs. All this one must expect in rural work in Bolivia.

I spent a pleasant few days with my daughter and husband, Elder and Mrs. Thomann, in Cochabamba, holding a few meetings, visiting interested persons, and auditing the books. I had a pleasant visit with the judge, now only a lawyer, who saved the life of Brother Pareira when he had been condemned to be shot for teaching a religion different from that of the Catholic Church. He keeps the Sabbath, and is very friendly.

Surely a great work is before us in Bolivia. Every cultivable spot of ground (there is not much of it) in these high mountain valleys is under cultivation, and it is always accompanied by an Indian adobe hut. The mountainsides have flocks of sheep, and llamas may be counted by hundreds, herded by some Indian maiden, busily spinning on a stick in the meantime. Happily the power of the priest is greatly diminished. The laws give religious liberty.

Our return from Cochabamba was eventful. Twice in a single day we were compelled to leave a river bed on account of sudden rises in the stream, and find our way along high, narrow, and sometimes dangerous mountain paths. Some of those experiences we shall never forget. The only one of any serious consequence was a fall from my mule. As we were passing down a steep incline, my saddle slipped forward. Thus losing control of my animal, I tried to dismount; but it was unnecessary. He gave me a generous boost, and I turned a somersault, landing on my back among the rocks some distance in front, and below him. The wonder is that it did not kill me. I could but realize a Father's care. In a few minutes we were enabled to resume our journey, but it was with much difficulty and pain on my part. For several weeks I suffered much, but, thank God, I am again sound and well.

These things are but passing incidents. The unforgettable, ever-present thing, the one thought that ever urges its solemn importance, is that here are millions without hope and without God, and yet judgment bound. What shall we do to lift them, to save them? Bolivia must have help, and must have it soon. Who is willing to come to endure hardships, to live and be sacrificed for this people?

J. W. WESTPHAL.