Northern Italy by Stephen Nelson Haskell

Seventh-day Adventist Missionary Society · Oakland, Cal. · Sep 14, 1882

Northern Italy.

By Stephen Nelson Haskell

August 12 we left Switzerland to visit the Sabbath-keepers in Northern Italy. Our trip over the Alps gave us an opportunity of seeing much that was grand and picturesque. Some of the mountains we went over; others we went under through tunnels, of which there are many, varying from a few rods to many miles in length. One of these, under Mount Cenis, through which we passed, is eleven miles long. Fresh air is forced into this tunnel and some others by machinery. We passed copper mines, slate quarries, and lime rock in abundance. In some places smoke was issuing in large volumes from the sides of the mountains, many hundred feet from the valleys below. We were told that this proceeded from furnaces in which ore is melted. In some instances cars containing ore were conducted down the mountain on wires, extending from the place of operation to the base of the mountain, hundreds of feet below. In other places these cars ran down on a track. What seemed most remarkable was the manner in which the sides of the mountains are cultivated. It would seem that every available square rod of land is made to produce wheat or grapes. Walls and terraces hold the soil in place. Flat stones of enormous size, in which the mountains in some localities abound, are also set up edgeways for the same purpose.

Grain and other produce is conveyed to the bottom of the mountains on wooden sleds, also in large cloth sacks, much larger than bed-ticks, on the backs of burros. These sacks are so much larger than the animal that carries them that we could only see its head, when in front of it, and the lower part of its legs. Women are employed even in the heaviest part of harvesting as commonly as are the men.

We next visited the Waldensian Valley in Northern Italy. In this valley, and on the sides of the mountain, we found a few who observe the Sabbath of the Lord. The truth was first brought here by Eld. M. B. Czechowski, eighteen years ago, and Sr. Revel has observed the Sabbath since that time, although in this respect her husband is not with her. She is a woman of intelligence and piety. In the locality where she lives, the mountains are so steep, and the rocks are such, that a description of them would seem incredible to those unacquainted with the place. The soil is worked by men and women instead of animals. From five hundred to one thousand feet up the mountains, we found some who have recently commenced to keep the Sabbath from reading Les Signes des Temps. The people generally in this section of the country, understand the German, French, and Italian languages, but they speak a mixture of the last two. We never witnessed a greater desire to have the truth explained than in some of the families which we visited, although it was with great difficulty that we could speak to them. Bro. Gardner translated what we said into French, and some member of the family rendered it in their native tongue. When we bowed in prayer, and each prayed in his own language, the melting Spirit of God rested upon us.

On the Sabbath we met with the friends at the house of Bro. Frarias, who is a Baptist evangelist. Some twelve or fifteen were present. We gathered around a large table, and each took his Bible, French, Italian, or English, and found that the same truths were taught in all. Could our American brethren have looked in upon us, and witnessed the free flow of tears on the part of some, they would have been convinced that the Spirit of God is not hindered in its operations by national barriers. The friends at this place had previously held no religious meetings; but one brother who is an educated man, understanding the Greek, English, French, and Italian languages appointed a meeting at his house the next Sabbath, and two who had not been keeping the Sabbath said that they should attend.

A VISIT TO THE CAVES FORMERLY INHABITED BY THE WALDENSES.

At 4:30 A. M. we started to visit some of the caves upon the mountains among the rocks, where the Vaudois hid themselves in the time of the persecution. In one cave three hundred persons were concealed for some time. Women and children were taken into it by means of ropes. So difficult is the passage to this cave that only a few visitors, even with the use of ropes, have ever entered it. We at first were obliged to lay aside our coats. Then, after creeping a short distance, we removed our shoes and stockings so as to more firmly cling to the sides of the rocks. A single misstep would cause one to fall hundreds of feet down the ledges upon nothing but rocks. We insisted upon entering the cave, but our guide persistently refused. He had never entered it himself. Taking his position between us and the only access to it, no entreaty on our part could prevail upon him to let us pass. Finally, seeing that we were determined to make the attempt, he first entered the cave, which had to be done by going down feet first, some thirty or forty feet. He then came back, and by placing his feet and showing him where to place his hands, piloted Bro. Gardner into it. I only ventured far enough to look in.

There is another cave more easy of access, into which, through an aperture in the rock, a person goes down into utter darkness for half an hour. The thought of people living in such places as these, where to sustain life the men were obliged to search for food during the day, enabled us to form some idea of the terribleness of the persecution which this people endured.

A branch of the Inquisition which existed in the valley has recently been repaired. In it were found skeletons with the head downward, thus indicating the terrible death which these persons must have suffered. We visited this place and saw these bones. Many families whose ancestors were of these persecuted people, now live on the mountains in this vicinity. We called upon some of them and were interested and surprised by their familiarity with the Scriptures. They were an unusually clear-minded and intelligent people, hospitable in the extreme. They related to us many interesting circumstances connected with the persecution which their forefathers experienced. They also told us that there were some who in those times observed the seventh day, and that a few copies of an ancient history were in existence, which gave an account of them.

Judging from our experience, a good work might be accomplished with this people, could some faithful man who could speak to them in their own, or the French language, spend some time in their midst. When they saw that the Bible read as we said it did, it was a sufficient argument for them, and they would exclaim, "It must be so." They manifested a reverence for the Scriptures which is seldom seen in these last days. We offered to pay our hostess of whom we took refreshments; but she would take nothing. Said she, "You have given us much light; you have done us so much good," etc. We have never longed to speak a foreign tongue so much as since coming to Europe and finding those who were longing for a knowledge of the truth. Sometimes when we have taken the French Bible to assist in looking out references, etc., it has seemed to us that the Spirit of God especially helped. God has a scattered people everywhere, of every nation, kindred, tongue, and people. It is true that God is preparing the way before us in a remarkable manner. Laborers who can visit from house to house, meet the people where they are, are wanted in these times. With such persons God's angels will co-operate, and they will eventually rejoice in the fruit of their labor in the kingdom of God. The laws in Italy relating to religious privileges seem to be all that could be desired.

S. N. HASKELL.