A Modern Trip to the Holy Land by L. R. CONRADI

Review and Herald Publishing Association · Takoma Park Station, Washington, D. C. · Dec 17, 1908

A Modern Trip to the Holy Land

By L. R. CONRADI

L. R. CONRADI

CENTURIES ago a voyage to the Holy Land was not only a matter of months, connected with all kinds of dangers and privations, but of great expense. To-day six days suffice from London or Hamburg to Palestine. Every comfort can be had for money, and one hundred thirty-five dollars will cover the price of a second-class return ticket. Any one desiring to see much in a short time and at little expense can view the continent of Europe, visit all the chief places noted in the history of the Reformation, like Wittenberg, Wartburg, Worms, Zurich, Geneva; pass through the majestic Alps; take in the sights of ancient and modern Rome, and embark at Naples, stopping in Egypt on the way. Thus he can see the chief historical places of Protestantism, the papacy, Islam, and ancient Israel, as well as Rome and Egypt.

My time being limited, I left Hamburg, September 16, and with few changes made the run of twelve hundred sixty miles from there to Brindisi, Italy, in forty-seven hours. In the north the trees had already lost their leaves, and it was cold enough for an overcoat; in the south one had to put on light clothing, and for a small amount delicious fruits of various kinds could be secured in abundance. The Lloyd steamer “Bohemia” was in port from Triest, Austria, and within two hours pulled out into the blue Adriatic, which was quite rough as long as we faced the wind. But as we turned southeast, a quieter sea set in, and the glories of a southern sunset at sea were unfolded before us, announcing the sweet Sabbath rest. On Sabbath our boat passed along the rocky, barren shores of classic Greece, once the ruler of the world, its philosophers still the study of modern savants. Not a town was in sight. Scarcely any sign of life could be observed—the past glories all faded, soon to be forever outshone by the eternal luster of the kingdom of God. During the night our boat glided past the island of Crete, the last European soil; and Sunday our eyes beheld only blue skies and the vast Mediterranean. Before daylight Monday the clanking of our anchor chains assured us that we were safely anchored on African soil. Its chief seaport, Alexandria, had been reached. Nearly a thousand miles by sea had been covered in sixty-two hours.

The darker faces on shore, and the harsh, guttural sounds of the Arabic, bespoke another continent; while the order maintained by well-dressed police testified of the wholesome influence of British rule. While preparing to take the fast train for Port Said, two familiar faces appeared in the crowd of passengers : Brethren Awada and Keough, our Egyptian workers, had unexpectedly come to take the same train. As the cars flew up the Nile delta, branching off at Benha, and passed through the land of Goshen, they told us what God was doing in the land of Ham. At Benha, where we changed trains, two young men who had become convinced of the truth, and who were at the time teaching in a school, assisted us. A six-hours’ run brought us to Port Said, a distance of one hundred sixty-two miles, the oppressive heat and the clouds of fine dust testifying to the nearness of the vast desert.

Not having secured a visa for Turkey, I called on the United States consul, who could give me no sure information; but by his advice and certificate, I secured an Egyptian passport. We then boarded another Austrian Lloyd steamer, to continue our passage to Syria the same evening. Brother Scholz and Sister Brefin had come on this boat from Triest, spending ten days en route, and they rejoiced when we joined them. Early the next day we could plainly see the mountains of Judea. Thus less than six days were sufficient to bring us from Hamburg to ancient Joppa. A number of Israelites filled the deck, but quite a task awaited them before they would be permitted to land. The Turkish government has made at least one improvement at Joppa—it has erected a quarantine station outside of the town. All the third-class passengers, whether willingly or by force, had to embark in row-boats to the shore, to take a bath, and then return in the same perilous way over the high waves, while all the other passengers simply paid a franc after being inspected by the doctor.

Finally by noon the yellow flag was hauled down, the steamer anchored nearer to town, and the passengers were allowed to embark for the shore. As we pulled up to the Turkish custom-house, no passport was demanded, no bakshish called for: a new era had dawned in Turkey. We all walked out to the German colony, close to Joppa, and, wholly unexpectedly to the German believers living there, we called on them. This company seldom see a minister. Some time ago they lost their faithful elder; and their joy was great when so many of us paid them a visit. Messengers were quickly sent out, to invite their friends, and soon we had a meeting at the place where Peter of old had his vision about Cornelius. Brother Ludwig Krug, who looks after our health institute at Jerusalem, joined us there. As we returned toward evening, the waves had become so high that our boat at times seemed to be swallowed by them. But the Lord protected us, and we felt like praising him when we safely boarded our steamer again.

While the steamer passed the plain of Sharon, I had interesting visits with some old acquaintances, among others the Lutheran pastor of Jerusalem, who often visits our health institute. He talked with me till after midnight, when we rounded Mount Carmel, and anchored in the Bay of Caifa. After visiting Sister Muller, who is nursing in the German colony, our company ascended Mount Carmel. Since my last visit there five years ago, another pensionate has been erected on Carmel’s heights, both being crowded with guests this summer. The Jews have recently bought considerable property there, and intend also to erect some buildings. We called on a number of interested families. Some are in the valley of decision, and we hope erelong to have a company to testify for the truth on Carmel’s heights, as in the time of Elijah.

Our most interesting experience, however, was with three American women, who came with us on the same boat, bound for Sarepta, and coming from China. They told us of the wonderful gift of tongues, and tried to persuade every one with whom they came in contact. A certain man had preceded them. After failing in China, he had gone to Palestine, where at first quite a crowd gathered to hear him. Brother Krug attended his meetings. But the man’s efforts proved a total failure, and he left for the States. Two of the women had left the United States five months ago, and tried to preach in Canton, but their only convert was a bright little woman, who had labored for years in China, and had learned the language. The older woman would now and then pour forth a number of words, unintelligible to any one, claiming to have the gift of tongues. They had come all the way from China to visit Sarepta by special command of God, to view the Holy Land, and then return to the States. As I opened up the special message to this missionary, she became confounded, and admitted that she had never heard of it, and desired to investigate further. Paul’s admonitions to the Corinthians about the gifts are to be carefully studied. The same abuse of the gifts made then we find now.

Next morning early our steamer anchored in the harbor of Beirut, over-towered by the majestic Lebanon. Elder W. Ising came on board, and as we neared the shore, the well-known faces of Elder Z. G. Baharian and several other Armenian workers testified to the sudden change in Turkey. When we first planned a general meeting for the Levant field, we had no idea that our Armenian workers would be permitted to attend. But the Lord, who knows the end from the beginning, so directed matters that unexpectedly, like a flash of lightning from a clear sky, conditions so changed in Turkey that when the time for the meeting arrived, all could be present.

Hamburg.