REPORT FROM BRN. LOUGHBOROUGH AND BOURDEAU by John Norton Loughborough; D. T. Bourdeau

The Seventh-day Adventist Publishing Association · Battle Creek, Mich. · Aug 25, 1868

REPORT FROM BRN. LOUGHBOROUGH AND BOURDEAU.

By John Norton Loughborough; D. T. Bourdeau

Crossing the Isthmus—Passage from the Isthmus to California—The whole Company Landing at San Francisco in Safety and Good Spirits.

According to our expectations we reached Aspinwall, a small, but growing village, situated on the eastern coast of the Isthmus, Friday, July 3, at about 10, A. M. Before leaving the “Rising Star,” (for this was the name of our steamer,) we all joined in singing appropriate pieces for the occasion, among which were our “Missionary Hymn,” contained in our report from New York, the “Burial of Mrs. Judson,” on the island of St. Helena, “Calvary,” &c. This was the first time we had felt strong enough to indulge in singing since leaving New York City; and this exercise was truly reviving and inspiring to us all, and gathered several of the passengers around us, who seemed to be much interested in the singing. This privilege was made doubly precious to us by the fact that we had been deprived of it for some time. Every sentence seemed precious, forcible, and suggestive. We all sung with the spirit, and with the understanding, and were sensible of the presence of the Holy Spirit.

As we sung, > “Let me speak of muttering thunders, > Heard from Sinai’s cloud-capped brow,” from our Missionary Hymn, we saw more significance in the thunders of Sinai than ever before. How authoritative! How enforcing! How expressive of the sacredness and importance of God’s holy and just law! And how suggestive to all of the necessity of obeying it, and of the fearful punishment that awaits the disobedient! As we sung the words on the burial of Mrs. Judson, we felt to thank our Heavenly Father that we had all been preserved on our journey thus far, that our kind companions had been spared to still cheer us, and stay up our hands, and that we were all improving rapidly in health and strength.

It seemed good to us to place our feet on land again, although it was rainy. The monotony of the scenery at sea was broken by new and interesting scenery that now opened before us. Our attention was first arrested by cocoanut trees, which were different from any trees we see in the North. Next came the natives, or Indians, some of whom offered their assistance in carrying our heavy sachels to the hotel, which we, in our weak condition, accepted, rewarding them for their help. Others were busily engaged in selling a great variety of fruit, that grew on the Isthmus, to the passengers, and in doing other business. Many bought fruit, but we preferred to deny ourselves, and favor our stomachs, reserving the privilege of eating tropical fruits when we should be in a better condition to adapt ourselves to a change in our diet. Every time a ship lands in Aspinwall, it is, as it were, a harvest season to the natives, who are not backward in improving upon it, and who are not behind the whites in being greedy of filthy lucre. Some of them manifest a good degree of intelligence, while in all the animal propensities predominate, and the sad results of being deprived of the light of revelation are strongly marked.

We remained about one hour in Aspinwall, and then got aboard the cars, and were four hours in crossing the Isthmus—a distance of 47 miles. The change in our mode of traveling, together with the change in the scenery, was recreating to us, both in our mental and physical natures. Owing to the rainy season, and the kind providence of the Lord, the weather was unusually cool for the Isthmus, as several remarked who had often crossed it, which was very much in our favor. Some remarked that they had never known it to be so cool and comfortable on this part of the route.

We passed some twelve Indian villages, at some of which we stopped, and had a better opportunity of learning more of the customs of the natives. The children went naked, and some of the men and women wore but little on their persons, yet they manifested neatness in their dress, and about their dwellings, which were in regular Indian style, consisting generally of poles stuck in the ground, and covered with grass, &c. Some, however, were built with logs, but the covering was the same. We found trees and vegetation at the Isthmus differing so much from what we see North, that the contrast was wonderful. We could see no similarity except in one kind of wild grass, and even that was not exactly like ours. The forests were not as heavy as those at the North. The largest tree that we saw was the mahogany tree, which corresponded, in size, to our maple tree. There were seen leaves from four to six feet long, oranges, lemons, pineapples, bananas, mangoes, cocoanuts, and various other kinds of fruit. The vegetation never loses its verdure by cold, long winters; for all the winter they have is the wet season, which is as warm as our warmest summer season. This feature reminded us of how seasons used to be in the beginning, and how they will be in the new earth. There could not have been those extremes in the climate in Eden that we now have. The atmosphere was not then surcharged with an unnecessary amount of dampness, and with an extra amount of carbon, resulting from decay in the vegetable and animal kingdoms, all of which now serve as fuel for the rays of the sun, greatly increasing the heat at times; for there was no rain, neither had God’s fair creation been marred by decay and death.

The earth, clothed in verdure and beauty, was not broken up and barren as it now is, in different places. It had not lost its beautiful shape, comeliness, and balance, by the awful ravages of a flood, but presented a more uniform surface and color to the sun, and was, by virtue of its uniform shape, better related in its attraction to other planets. It must then have been free from those extremes of heat and cold that characterize it in its present fallen and sin-cursed state.

But to return to our description. We would not leave a false impression with our readers. True there are advantages in this climate; but there are also great disadvantages. The soil here is not so good as that in the North, neither is the air as pure; nor can we here raise such grains and fruits as we consider indispensable necessary for subsistence in the North; so that the North has the preference after all. And although in every clime we have some advantages and blessings accruing to us from God’s goodness and tender mercies, yet we also see and experience in every place the sad effects of sin and the curse, which make us long for a better state of things in Eden restored. This is not our home. We find no place on this earth where we can desire a permanent abode. We are pilgrims and strangers, and can be satisfied with nothing short of a resting place above.

While crossing the Isthmus we enjoyed a good dinner, composed of graham crackers and canned peaches, which our friends at Battle Creek, and in New York, kindly provided us with for the journey. We arrived at Panama, a city on the western shore of the Isthmus, at about 3, P. M., and, for the first time, the noble Pacific Ocean opened to our view. We were here told that a number of years since a portion of the city of Panama, situated where we stood, was destroyed by an earthquake, and we thought of the earthquakes and convulsions that awaited this earth, even before the coming of the Just One.

Owing to the shallowness of the harbor, and the size and heavy draft of the steamer, “Golden City,” on which we were to embark, the latter was anchored about three miles from shore. In order to get to our steamer we went on a smaller ship, passing over some of the ruins of the city occasioned by the earthquake, but now covered by the ocean. We got aboard of the Golden City, were introduced to our rooms, and settled our minds for the commencement of the Sabbath, during which we were disturbed by the loading of the baggage and freight. But for this we were not responsible. And Sunday morning, at 3 o’clock, we were awakened by the firing of a cannon, indicating that in thirty minutes we would set sail for San Francisco.

The next and only port at which we stopped on our route was Acapulco, which is a small village situated on the Mexican coast, about 1300 miles from the Isthmus. We were nearly six days in making this distance, reaching Acapulco Friday, the 10th. On our way to this place we were in sight of land every day but one, and passed by the coasts of the following countries: United States of Columbia, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, San Salvador, Guatemala, and Mexico; all of which, to our disappointment, presented a broken, uncultivated, and uninhabited surface, covered with vegetation resembling very much that at the Isthmus. Of course the interior furnishes a better soil and is more inhabited; yet neither of these countries presented attractions to us as places of residence. Howbeit they diverted our minds, making our voyage more pleasant and interesting.

Our minds were also diverted by the scenery at sea. And first we found that thus far the term “pacific” was properly applied to the ocean on which we were sailing, for it was more placid and calm than the Atlantic, making our passage more agreeable. Our ship was also larger, and furnished better accommodations, better ventilated rooms, a better assortment in our diet, and more accommodating waiters.

The Golden City is the largest steamship we ever saw, and is a wonder to behold in all of its parts, reminding us of the fact that we are indeed living in the day of God’s preparation. It is of nearly 4000 tons burthen, and is permitted, by law, to carry 1174 passengers. It takes one hundred hands to man and run it, besides the hundreds of persons that it employs at different points in doing business, and in loading and unloading baggage and freight.

Our rooms and situation were as good as any on the ship, and afforded us a commanding view of the vast ocean, with its flying fishes, whales, sea turtles, sea lions, sharks, sea plants, and large schools of porpoises,—fishes from three to six feet long, which we would meet at different points, shooting several feet out of the water at times, and apparently trying to keep up with the ship, until seemingly weary of the effort, they would scatter and disappear in the mighty deep.

If we desired a more extensive view we could go on the hurricane deck, where we could exercise, and see the land, and the various kinds of sea birds flying in every direction, and seeking for sustenance in trying to catch fishes, or in gathering the fragments which were thrown overboard.

We were disappointed in Acapulco. From the prominence given to it in the regulations on the boat we thought it was a large port; but we saw no large vessels, but simply a few very small steamers, prepared to accommodate us in supplying us with fresh water, &c.; a large number of canoes coming from different directions, some occupied by the natives, and some by Mexicans, and all laden with various kinds of fruit, fowls, and sea turtles for food, shells, &c., to sell to the officers of the boat, and the passengers. And all we could see of Acapulco was about half a dozen of small houses, the union of which would not be thought sufficient to be entitled to the name of village East. Acapulco is noted for one thing, however, and that is, being shut up, as it were, in a basin, and surrounded by hills on three sides; it is the warmest point on the route on the Pacific side. Yet here, also, we were favored with a cool breeze soon after reaching the place, which lasted till we left; and the fresh, though not the best, water with which we were supplied, made this place a very important point on the route.

So we see that this life is a checkered scene, made up of blessings as well as curses, and under all circumstances we have tokens of the kind care of our Heavenly Father. The water we received here was the more appreciated from the fact that the water we had on the boat was becoming very bad, and that we had been under the necessity of using condensed steam, which, of itself, was enough to make us sick. And here, also, we could learn a precious lesson, viz., that we shall appreciate and enjoy our future reward the more for having been deprived of it, and having experienced in a measure the opposite. Our trials and sufferings here will make our Heaven the sweeter in the end.

We here bought a few oranges, limes, and pineapples, to eat in connection with our meals, to obviate the necessity of our drinking much water. Oh! what would we not have given at times for a cup of soft water, which so many of our kind friends would have gladly given us, if it had been possible. But again we could not murmur, as we were not suffering any more in this respect, while seeking for the kingdom by well-doing, and self-denial, than others were in merely seeking after worldly gain, and a treasure on earth.

On the contrary we could rejoice so much the more as the object of our pursuit was more valuable than theirs.

We found the Mexicans to be rather an inferior race, which could not be owing to their climate, as that is said to be one of the most salubrious on this continent. We attributed this inferiority mainly to their religion, which is the Roman Catholic. Wherever this religion prevails, true civilization and improvement are retarded. And who knows but that one cause of the inferiority and backwardness of this nation is their cruelties to the natives of this country when they first settled it? Such cruelties must meet their awful, but just, retribution sooner or later.

As we were passing by the Mexican coast, we thought of Maximilian, who here recently lost his life in trying to establish a monarchy. Without endeavoring to settle the question as to whether his success would have improved the condition of this nation—which we very much doubt—we thought of his zeal, connected with the uncertainty of the future before him, and of the reason we have to be in earnest, in view of the certainty of our final triumph, with our just cause and Jesus at our head. We also thought that Maximilian was fulfilling prophecy respecting the anger of the nations, though he was not aware of it at the time. But he was not thereby justified, as much depends on what part we act in the fulfillment of prophecy. We cannot be neutral here. We must all act a part. Oh! that it may be on the right side! that we may act the part of obedience, by keeping the commandments of God and the faith of Jesus Christ! that we may prepare for the time of trouble, and be saved at Christ’s coming!

Sabbath, the 11th inst., was a good day to us all, from the commencement to its close. We think we realized from experience what it is to be “in the Spirit on the Lord’s day;”—if not to the point of having revelations from the Lord, as the beloved apostle had, yet to that degree which is requisite, to be comforted by, and guided in, the word of the Lord, and to appreciate the blessedness of a strong union with God, with our brethren—though separated from them—and with each other. Thank the Lord, our distance from those whom we love, does not separate us from them in spirit and brotherly love, nor hinder the Spirit of God from dwelling with us in answer to our prayers.

Among the unpleasant features of our journey were the following, from which we might justly infer that Satan was on board the ship, as well as the Spirit of the Lord and good angels: Spirituous liquors were sold, and men and women would drink, and even get intoxicated, at nearly all hours of the day, and even in the night. A person who engaged in reading the service and singing on Sunday, according to the Episcopalian service, one hour after this, we saw drinking to the health of one of his friends, and many of these would dance and carouse until quite late in the night; and what is worst of all, and sufficient to sink the ship if all were guilty and responsible, some of these very persons proved to be individuals of the baser sort—some of them, husbands who had been away, and were now returning to their wives and children, and some, wives who were going to meet their husbands, some of them, young men and women—practicing lewdness and licentiousness; and several being located near us, and keeping us awake night after night, by their debauchery, until the midnight hour. O my soul! where is the world drifting? Is this a sample of the world’s conversion in this land of light? If so, God deliver us from it, and keep the young who have not been led astray by the sin of Sodom, from the corrupting influences of this wicked age, and open the eyes of those for whom there is hope, that they may repent of their great wickedness. If ever we realized in our inmost souls how righteous Lot felt, when his soul was vexed from day to day by the unlawful deeds of those around him, it was when surrounded by these influences. There were some on the boat from nearly every State, and from many nations.

After we recovered from our sea-sickness, our leisure hours were employed in writing reports, letters, and sermons, and in studying the Scriptures, singing, reading Elder Bates’ life, and the interesting book entitled, “The Old Red House,” and in reviewing the French. In all this we tried to be systematic and temperate, and enjoyed much pleasure.

We found but a small number on the boat who had an interest in religion, therefore spoke to but few on the truth, and disposed of but few of our works. Yet we hope that our efforts in this direction, though limited, will not prove to have been in vain in the day of the Lord Jesus.

With our two-meal-a-day system, and our comparatively simple diet, we got along better than many stronger than ourselves, with their three meals and an almost endless assortment. They often lost a meal, and complained, but we did not lose a single meal, after recovering from our sea-sickness, and, for aught we know, we endured a seafaring life as well as any of the passengers, and better than many of them, and enjoyed clearness of mind.

Nothing very special occurred during our passage from Acapulco to San Francisco, a distance of nearly 2000 miles. Owing to the high winds, which would make it more dangerous for us to keep near the shore, and to our crossing the gulf of California, we kept away from the coast a few days, and did not see as much land as before, and a little after, reaching Acapulco. As we sailed northward, we were very sensible of a rapid change in the temperature from warm to cool; and although we took some pains in adapting our clothing to the change, yet we did not escape without a slight cold.

We arrived at San Francisco yesterday (Sabbath) in safety, and in good spirits, yet feeling the wear of the journey. We were thankful to God for his tender and preserving care over us during our long journey. On account of our being delayed in coming to the Isthmus, we were twenty-four instead of twenty-one days in making our passage from New York to this place.

One reason why we have written thus minutely, is to benefit those families whose duty it may be to join and aid us in our labors. We are satisfied that with a few families who are consecrated to the work, and are ready to bear burdens, not expecting to receive their full reward in this life, and who will represent the cause in all of its branches, we can accomplish, at least, twice as much as we could if left to do the work alone. But we want those of the right stamp. Better be left alone than to have the work retarded by those whose organizations and standing would make it a curse instead of a blessing to the mission. This is not the place for the weak and those in trial to run to. Those in trial had better stay where they are till they can learn to bear their own burdens, and help others. We don’t want them here. We reserve no energies to spend upon such. If they come, we shall labor independently of them, and peradventure the sword of truth that we shall wield, may be found to treat them as enemies of the truth. To avoid confusion, let those who think it their duty to come, consult with their elders, and with those in whom we all have confidence.

More soon. J. N. LOUGHBOROUGH, D. T. BOURDEAU.

San Francisco, Cal., July 19, 1868.