A Visit to Constantinople by L. R. Conradi

Review and Herald Publishing Association · Takoma Park Station, Washington, D. C. · Feb 11, 1915

A Visit to Constantinople

By L. R. Conradi

It being almost impossible to provide our workers in the Balkans and in Constantinople with the necessary money, I decided to undertake a trip for that purpose, and at the same time have opportunity to counsel with our workers in these fields. I was well aware of the increased difficulties in traveling during the war. Traveling permits had to be secured for Austria-Hungary, Roumania, Bulgaria, and Turkey. No return tickets could be obtained, as heretofore, but one-way tickets only from country to country. Railway time-tables were a veritable mystery, which could be solved only as one advanced from country to country.

Leaving Hamburg November 10, I spent the afternoon with Elder Schuberth at Berlin, and with Dr. Meyer, who is now in charge of our Friedensau school. The night train brought me to Vienna next morning. Here I secured several visés. Vienna seemed to be much more affected by the war than Berlin. One could see many wounded in the streets, and there were crowds of fugitive Jews from Galicia. That night a fast train brought me to Budapest, where I spent the forenoon with Brother Huenergardt and others in counsel about matters in the Danube Union.

Twenty-four hours in the train brought me to Bukharest, the capital of Roumania. En route a number of military trains, and also trains full of wounded soldiers, gave evidence of the grim realities of war. Missing connections here, I spent the afternoon with Brother Paulini, and on account of the urgency of the matter, pressed on next morning. The trains in Roumania and Bulgaria were crowded with new recruits and with old reserves—a sure sign that they were exerting themselves to the utmost to take a hand in the fray at a moment’s notice, if need be. The shores of the Danube were strongly guarded, and it took considerable time to investigate the passports and to search the luggage before the passengers were permitted to enter the steamer at Giurgevo to be conveyed over to the Bulgarian side, where they must pass through the same ordeal. As I had half a day at Rustchuk before a through train left for Turkey, I had ample time to inquire about my ticket farther on, and the possibility of connections. I was informed at the ticket office that the price of the ticket was in gold, and that meant thirty-three per cent more than the price stated on the ticket. Going up to the city, at the exchangers I found the rate was reduced to seventeen per cent. Toward evening the other boat came in, and I was indeed thankful that I did not have to rush through and lose so much on exchange as other travelers.

The former main routes to Constantinople were both closed,—the one going by land from Belgrade through Servia to Sofia and Adrianople, the other by sea, from the Roumanian border at Constantza, through the Bosporus. But happily, last year a new route was opened through Bulgaria, right through the Balkan Mountains, via the Shipka Pass.

On the way I made the acquaintance of a German engineer from Berlin, an Israelite and an enthusiastic Zionist. He had for several years been employed in the Jewish colonies in Palestine, but at the call to arms had returned to Germany. However, he was allowed to return again in the interest of these colonies. As we got better acquainted, I told him of our faith, and he became intensely interested, especially in our position concerning the Sabbath. I gave him the address of our depository in Constantinople, and he came up the next morning after my arrival; but as I was absent, he called again. He bought a copy of the “History of the Sabbath;” and as he stopped in Constantinople several weeks, he was at our meetings a number of times. He told me that he thought we might do a great work among the Arabs working in these colonies, and I therefore put him in touch with our worker in Palestine.

At Tirnova-Sejmen, shortly before reaching the Turkish border, I found myself on the old Belgrade-Sofia route. On account of the nearness of Adrianople to the border, Turkey has lost but few miles of territory along the railway, and there are still over two hundred miles between the Bulgarian border and Constantinople. Around Adrianople one still sees traces of the Balkan War. Blown-up iron railway bridges are seen beside the tracks, but these have been replaced by new ones. Some buildings have been restored, others still remain in ruins. Considerable work has been done to strengthen Adrianople. Late at night I reached Constantinople, where Brethren Frauchiger and Bridde met me at the train, and took me to our depository.

I spent two days with the brethren, and would gladly have remained longer, but matters were too unsettled in the Balkans to warrant a longer visit. Our brethren were very happy indeed to be provided with sufficient means for both Turkey and Syria, to last till next spring. I was surprised to find that they had no difficulty whatever in exchanging the German and Austrian bills into gold and paper, and that the Turkish paper is on a par with gold.

Three years had passed since my last visit to Constantinople, and I could see many improvements in the city. Some of the main thoroughfares had been widened, fine electric tramways installed, and a good solid bridge now connects the European and Turkish quarters, over the Golden Horn. The city was richly decorated with flags on account of the great demonstration the day previous, when the holy war was declared before the Mosque of Mohammed II, the conqueror of Constantinople. The city seemed to be astir with military preparations. The soldiers seemed well armed and were clad in khaki. The red fez, which had been such a fine target for modern arms, had been replaced by a khaki head covering. I was surprised to see so many autos in use for the army.

The main object of my visit, however, was not to see sights, but to spend a few hours in close counsel with our brethren. I was happy to find them in good health and of good courage; and although they have to work amid many difficulties, yet they press on, and some souls are interested. They cannot hold public lectures, but they work quietly. Brother Baharian had left for his field in the neighborhood of Samsun on October 27. As the Russian steamer on which he sailed learned of the outbreak of the war, October 29,

it turned toward Russia, and thus Brother Baharian found himself soon on Russian territory. The boat anchored for eight days at Iskadovski. While the Moslems were sent to the interior, he was brought to Odessa, November 9. He could not find any of our members there; but after a fourteen days’ stay, he was allowed to return to Constantinople. He wrote us from Rustchuk, Bulgaria, November 30. As we have so few workers in this field, we are surely grateful to God that Brother Baharian is at liberty again to continue his work for the salvation of souls. Our workers and brethren in these fields appreciate the fact that they are remembered in the prayers of God’s people everywhere.

On November 18 I left Constantinople; and as the train wound its way through the noted Tshataldsha lines, I had an excellent opportunity to view this great battle field. A broad valley separates the two ranges of hills and forms a natural moat stretching from the Black Sea to the Marmora. It took twenty-four hours to reach Sofia. Here I was met by Brethren Motzer and Thomas, at the train. At this place, as everywhere, the first fifteen minutes had to be spent with the police concerning the passport. Here we had a busy day together in counsel. Our work in Bulgaria has moved slowly. I was very happy, however, to find that the brethren were making headway. We called on a very nice Bulgarian family, where the wife is already a member of our church, and the husband seems about ready to take his stand on the Lord’s side. He is an architect, has been in Berlin, and thus we could converse directly with him. But he encounters very bitter opposition. I also met several of our leading brethren. A good stock of literature has since been shipped to Sofia, so that if there should be any difficulty, the brethren in that field may go on with their missionary work.

That night I left for Roumania, crossed at Rustchuk at noon the next day, and reached Bukharest just about Sabbath eve. Elder Paulini had made three appointments for me to meet with the three churches in Bukharest. Friday night I spoke at the North Church, and the hall was crowded to the utmost; Sabbath forenoon I spoke to the German church, and Sabbath afternoon to the Central Church. We now have in Bukharest about 230 members. About twenty-five of the leading members of the churches in this city met in the afternoon, from four o’clock till ten at night, and we had a very profitable time together. We considered the organization of a third Roumanian church in the city. On that same Sabbath our brethren had rather a lively time at a city north from Bukharest, where we have over fifty members. All the priests of the city were gathered at our meeting hall, to attack our faith and to induce our members to give up the message. At every synod the Roumanian Church has, one of the themes considered is how to meet the Seventh-day Adventists. The papers are full of this topic, and yet every effort against us but strengthens the work. We have now six hundred members in Roumania. The work is carried on there by a self-supporting conference, which is growing rapidly.

Another twenty-four hours brought me to Budapest, where Elder Huenergardt had arranged for a committee meeting soon after my arrival. As we could not have our regular fall conferences in the Danube Union, we decided to have the ordination of three of our brethren. These three brethren had been called in, and after addressing a large congregation, we ordained Brethren Gassman, Mink, and Popescu to the gospel ministry. Two of these brethren are Germans, the third is a Roumanian. We were sorry that Brother Schillinger could not be with us, on account of sickness, but we were glad to have Elder Meyer, the president of the Transylvania Conference, and Brother Boex with us. By placing Brother Doerner at Pressburg, and Brother Gassman in northern Hungary, we at least have each field provided with ordained ministers for the present. But Elder Huenergardt and his laborers are of good courage, and the work is onward in their union. At Vienna I met Elder Wolfgarten. Our work in Austria is passing through the same experience as in the fields in other parts of Europe. Our people meet on the Sabbath, but it is very difficult to hold public lectures, and much of the work must be done by house-to-house effort. Our canvassing work also greatly suffers in Austria-Hungary on account of the war, and the parcel post and freight move very slowly and irregularly.

I felt grateful to the Lord that I was able to make this trip, in the midst of war and turmoil, and that I could provide our workers in Turkey and Bulgaria with the necessary means till summer, and that we could plan together for our work. May our brethren everywhere remember these fields in their prayers.

L. R. CONRADI.