Simla, the Summer Capital of India
By Mrs. J. L. Shaw
Away in the central chains of the western Himalaya Mountains, fifty-eight miles from the main railway, is Simla, the summer capital of India—the summer home of the viceroy and leading government officials. This was first established as a health resort in the early part of 1800, and has for years been the summer residence of the viceroy and officials of the government of India, and their retinue of government servants. Simla has an elevation of seven thousand feet. Up to the present time all the travel of the fifty-eight miles is made by tongas, over a broad, well-kept cart road. When it is known that this distance, and the ascent of seven thousand feet, is made in eight hours, it can easily be seen that everything must be done most orderly to accomplish the trip. Each tonga is equipped with two strong horses, which are changed every two or three miles. The drivers are stalwart natives of dignified bearing, with steady nerves, and, as far as we could see, kindly manners. To avoid accident, each driver is provided with a horn, which is blown occasionally to warn the return tongas, bullock trains, or camel caravans, of their coming. Everything, from the driver to the harness and bullock wagons, is of a substantial nature. It is evident that lightness of weight has never entered into the thought, but, rather, substantiality. No doubt this has saved lives; for accidents are seldom known, though at times during the rains the old cart road is regarded a little dangerous. At the present time a railway is under construction, and will soon be in operation. This will make Simla more accessible to tourists. As one begins the ascent, he leaves behind the hot and sultry plains, dotted with rice fields and native villages, and finds instead towering hills and green slopes, which are a pleasant change from the heat and congested condition of the cities. When work is impeded by sickness, it is, indeed, a boon to lift up our eyes to the hills, from whence cometh our help. These old Himalaya Mountains bring relief to many worn missionaries in India, and are natural provisions for giving renewed health and vigor. About thirty miles distant, as one winds in and out among the hills, Simla can be seen quite distinctly, and the buildings that can first be recognized are the town hall and Viceregal Lodge. Simla covers an extended area, and jinrikishas are used by nearly every one. These are drawn by four or five native men—two in the front, and two or three at the back. The men make a very pleasing appearance in their highly colored costumes, as they run up and down the hills with the jinrikisha. The privilege of riding in a carriage in Simla is granted only to the viceroy—the commander in chief and lieutenant governor of the Punjab. One of the most interesting points is the peak of Jako, eight thousand feet in height, in the east of Simla. This hill is thickly wooded, and its slopes on all sides are covered with beautiful homes. On its top a Hindu priest lives, and has a heathen temple. He spends his life in worshiping idols and feeding the monkeys grain. When we visited Jako at first, we did not see any monkeys. The old priest, now almost blind, brought out grain, and began to call the monkeys. They seemed to know the voice; for there were answers from all over the mountainsides, and soon from all directions they came, large, small, and medium-sized. Some, too weak to walk, fastened themselves to their mothers, and swelled the number. They ate their food greedily, and when we ventured to offer a little food to the rajah, or king of the company, he gave a snarl, and made a most hideous grimace. These monkeys are free to wander all over the city, as people are not allowed to molest them, there being some who regard them as sacred, and worship them. It is not an unusual thing for twenty or thirty to pass along together in the main thoroughfare, or to walk into a house and take what best suits their fancy. The chief building of interest to the visitor is the Viceregal Lodge, the residence in the summer months of Lord Curzon, the viceroy of India. The grounds have the appearance of an American park, covered with green grass and an occasional cluster of pampas grass. The climate resembles very much that of California, but the winters are colder. During the warm weather there is an evenness of temperature that makes it a very healthful place. Here are gathered representatives of the best families of England and India. The system and thoroughness that characterize the government work in all its branches are reflected in the homes of the people, and there is much really to learn and admire in these English and Indian people. It was our privilege to spend eight weeks in this beautiful retreat, with two of our workers, Sisters Wilcox and Knight. To reach the class of people represented in this place is no small undertaking, but the Lord has greatly blessed the efforts made. Miss Wilcox came to India as a self-supporting missionary. By means of the health work, she has gained access to some of the most influential homes in India, and has had experiences that have shown the leadings of the Lord in a marked manner. Miss Knight has spent two summers here, and formed a large circle of friends, and has had a very pleasant connection with the Young Women's Christian Association. Some have taken their stand for the truth, and others are interested.