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The Rio Grande Route

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International Tract and Missionary Society · Oakland, California · Dec 3, 1885

FromSigns of the Times, Vol. 11, No. 46.

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The Rio Grande Route.

LEAVING Salt Lake City, on this route, we travel southward up the "Jordan" River to Utah Lake, from which it issues. To make the analogy complete, this lake is sometimes called the "Sea of Galilee," and the Jordan running to Salt Lake—the Dead Sea—below the city, which is of course, Jerusalem. Provo City is the only considerable place on our route in this valley, a place of from 3000 to 6000 inhabitants, for we received both these and all intermediate numbers in answer to our inquiries; but the valley is well settled and cultivated, especially near the mountains. Leaving this valley, we enter Spanish Fork Cañon, rising to an elevation of 7,464 feet, crossing the Wasatch Mountains. The cañon on the eastern slope, which we descended, is for the most interesting, one point being somewhat noted—Castle Gate—where a narrow rock, having about the same elevation for some distance, presents a perpendicular front on the north near the water's edge, and a similar one on the south side, but of less elevation, leave no one to wonder at the name given to it. It was nearly night when we reached the plain, and we arrived at Green River at 7 P. M. The stream is here considerably larger than where we cross it in Wyoming on the Central Pacific. We did not pass through a mountainous country during the night; yet we made some heavy grades; the last six miles before we stopped for breakfast, we averaged, on a down grade, 178 feet to the mile.
Daylight broke upon us at Cimmaron, the breakfast station; and we could perceive a dark mass just before us like a monstrous rock clearly outlined on the sky. And such in fact it was; for here we abruptly entered the "black cañon," not at first the "Black Cañon of the Gunnison," but the cañon of the Cimmaron, which, as a writer says, "is so very narrow and dark it deserves no better name than crevice," but a huge crevice it is! This soon runs into the cañon of the Gunnison, the general features being still the same. We presume it gets its title from the dark appearance of the rocks, which impress the beholder with an idea of solidity and heaviness. They who have visited the Yosemite Valley will best realize the difference between the rocks of this cañon and those of other cañons on the route, by likening them to El Capitan as compared with the peaks on the opposite side of the valley. The train whirls and fairly twists through the narrow gorges, which continually seem to shut up the way before us. The rocks on either side rise perpendicularly, with a striking uniformity of height. But it is indescribable, and words are useless. It must be seen to be appreciated as a wonder of nature.
We must say, however, that there is variety enough to be pleasing to the beholder and to add new interest to every phase of the ever-changing scene. Especially is this the case in that part where stands the "Currecanti Needle," a rock terminating in a sharp point, appearing almost isolated from the mountains as viewed from different points of observation. Here the rocks on either side are less dark in appearance and more broken than farther below. Their height is fully two thousand feet.
Leaving this cañon, we soon reach Gunnison City. This city, and the country in which it is situated, was the greatest surprise with which we met on the whole route; first, to find that it is a city indeed, and secondly, to find it located in a vast plain of good grazing land. To what extent it may be cultivated we could not judge, but for a cattle range it is excellent. We had always associated the name Gunnison with the "Black Cañon" and the mines, and supposed it was all a mountainous country. The city lies at an elevation of 7,680 feet, with an abundance of water in the mountain streams which form the Gunnison River to water the whole plain.
From this point we continue to rise rapidly until we reach "Marshall Pass," the summit of the Rocky Mountains on this route, forty-eight miles east of Gunnison. This Pass presents the most extensive mountain scenery, and one of the greatest feats of railroad engineering, that it was ever our privilege to view. Turning in every direction, making abrupt curves to take every advantage of the shape of the mountain sides, on a grade of 217 feet to the mile, two locomotives keep our train moving steadily upward, until we stop at an elevation of 10,858 feet. Not far from the station a snowy peak looks down upon us from a height of 3000 feet more. This view is not of cañons and rocky points, but a grand, magnificent sweep of mountain ranges, such as we think can be seen from no other railroad station. The snow sheds on this Pass are short, offering no serious obstruction to the view. At one point we could look back over the way we had ascended the mountain, and see six railroad tracks below us at different elevations.
Having safely arrived at this great height, and looking into the valleys to the eastward, there were many misgivings expressed about the descent; for on this side of the mountain the road is as crooked as on the other, and the grade is the same—217 feet to the mile. But all fears were soon dispelled, as the faithful air-brakes held the train under perfect control, and we descended almost as slowly as we had ascended. This was necessary; for no human power or device could stop a train on such a grade if it should once get under motion at high speed. But the most nervous soon felt at ease, and decided that this was a safe road.
About twenty-five miles from the summit we came to the Arkansas River, in another plain. But this was not of long continuance, as we soon entered the "Grand Cañon of the Arkansas." And it is well worthy of its name. It is grand beyond all description—beyond all conception. At least no one who is not acquainted with Colorado scenery and cañons can have any conception of its magnificence. That rivers should ever find such outlets is a standing marvel. The whole passage is narrow; the river is a torrent; the rocks rise abruptly from the water's edge, and tower thousands of feet over our heads. Each turn presents some new form of projection, and the interest and the wonder is constantly on the increase. At the "Royal Gorge" we first saw a bridge running parallel with the river over which it is suspended. The water runs at the base of the solid mass of rock which rises perpendicularly far above it. No ground and no loose rocks are there on which to build the track. To blast a track in this rock would only fill up the gorge below, and endanger the road for a long distance. The engineers had mortices dug into the rocks on both sides of the stream, but how this was accomplished we have no idea, and erected an arch over the river. This arch is made to sustain the bridge, which nestles close against the face of the rock, and bears the train around the point to where a track can be made. Thus it is a bridge landing us on the same side of the river from which we entered upon it!
When we emerge from this cañon, we have crossed the Rocky Mountains; the vast expanse of plain lies before us which reaches to the Missouri River. And what a day's ride we have enjoyed. Some have told us that we would never wish to pass over this road a second time. But they were mistaken; we are well enough acquainted with mountain scenery to know that we should enjoy another passage quite as well as we did this one. We have a strong desire to see all these things in reverse order—going from east to west. And a railroad trip is altogether too speedy to allow one to appreciate all the beauties and grandeur of such scenery at one view. We advise all who love nature in its ever-varied forms, who are accustomed to "look from nature up to nature's God," to take this trip if ever the opportunity is offered. As long as memory endures, they will neither forget nor regret it.
Our traveling companions asked us if Yosemite is equal to the Grand Cañon of the Arkansas. Our answer was, They are so unlike they cannot be compared. They are both unequaled by any place accessible to travel. The mountains at Yosemite are higher, and the falls wonderful. The grandeur of the Arkansas Cañon is realized because of its narrowness. On either side the mountains of rocks tower over our heads. Were it half a mile wide, it would present quite a different appearance.
Lack of connection on the railroads left us to spend some time in Denver, but at an unfavorable time. Elder Ostrander had gone to Michigan, and they were just moving the mission rooms to the extreme north end of the city. At Kansas City an agent of the Rock Island Road met us at the cars, and assisted us in regard to our baggage and in changing trains. This relieved us from the perplexity which often attends transfers even in union depots. We can say that we received the most courteous treatment on the whole trip, and never made the passage so entirely free from colds as on this occasion. At Chicago we were met in the depot by Brother Gage, and we almost felt at home. We made no stop, but transferred to the Michigan Central fast express, arriving at Battle Creek at 8 P. M., November 3. We soon found a pleasant home at the Sanitarium, thankful for the goodness of God, who has so mercifully preserved us amid the dangers of the journey, and who grants us so many unmerited favors, day by day, continually.