FOR several months past we have had in mind a visit to the outlying districts of this island, for the purpose of becoming acquainted with the people and learning how better to plan our work for the future.
Accordingly, on August 14, in company with Brother Bambridge, who is a native of this place, Elder Read and myself started in a substantial wagon to make the circuit of the island. Passing out of the narrow and crooked streets of Papeete, we were soon rolling along past clumps of bananas and native huts, with here and there a patch of land that bore some resemblance to a garden. Occasionally we would meet a native or a Chinese with a load of charcoal or fruit upon his back, bound for the market. By the roadside, amid pretty surroundings, were the country homes of some of the wealthy people of Papeete.
In many places along our journey we passed vanilla bean plantations. This nice-smelling product, from which the flavoring extract of commerce is made, is planted in some thicket, where the beans can climb the trees. One odd peculiarity of this climber is that it does not grow straight up, neither does it wind around the body of the tree, but climbs up in a zigzag course, with leaves at each joint. The bean, after being dried, is shipped off to distant lands.
At our first stopping place we found the natives anxious to talk on religious subjects and eager for literature. One old blind man was especially glad to meet us, while another man wanted to know if we did not have any Bible-reading book in the Tahitian language for sale. There is no doubt but that books in this language would meet with a ready sale, and be read with much interest. There is also a call at this place for some readings suitable for use in their weekly prayer and social meetings. At another place where we called, the natives came in one by one with their Bibles and we had a Bible reading.
We passed by large tracts of land that years ago were one vast cotton field where 3,000 Chinese found employment; now it is almost without inhabitant, “and, lo, it was all grown over with thorns, and nettles [in this case guavas] had covered the face thereof, and the stone wall thereof was broken down.” Alone and desolate in a field stands a large boiler and engine that mark the site of a cotton mill, and exhibit the decline of the manufacturing industry in Tahiti. Beneath the sod lies the ex-proprietor of the mill and the plantation, a victim of alcohol.
The first night out we were the guests of the chief of the district of Mataiea, who is a large and intelligent looking man. Here, as usual, we found those who were interested in the word of God.
On the morning of the second day out we passed the sixth distillery after leaving Papeete. Excepting a few blacksmith shops and one sugar mill, which is also a still, we did not see a single manufactory of any kind in the whole circle of the island except those for the making of rum. All these mills are run by foreigners, and are scattering death and misery among the natives at a terrible rate. Though this island is well adapted for the raising of sugar cane, not enough sugar is produced to supply the market here, as the distilleries use the cane in their work of making evil spirits.
The foliage and general appearance of the country the second day of our trip were beautiful beyond description. Large and thrifty trees, covered with vines and orchids and moss, grew by the roadside. Some of the orchids appeared like multitudes of fine green ribbons hanging in large clusters from the branches, while others had fastened their tiny roots into the bark of the tree, and stood there in their beauty as much at home as though the tree existed for their support. As we rode along the isthmus which joins the two islands of Tahiti together, we passed between rows of well-loaded orange trees, where fruit was left to ripen and fall to the ground to rot. In this district there were only two families living, one to keep the jail, and the other the hotel.
The village of Tautira, which is the most distant one of importance from Papeete, we found to be neat and prosperous above its sisters. Many of the houses are built in European style; the others are made of bamboo poles set on end. The ends of the houses are round, and, being neatly thatched with the leaves of the screw palm, are attractive and pretty in appearance, and comfortable and cool as homes. The income of this village is derived mostly from the sale of oranges, which are shipped to New Zealand. Being in a secluded place, the inhabitants are kept freer from the corruptions that are spreading death and destruction among the natives of Papeete. After spending only a few hours in this interesting place, where weeks might well be spent, and visiting with the one old Sabbath keeper of that place, and meeting a good many others who extended to us a hearty welcome, we turned our steps homeward, intending to see that place again as soon as we have more literature. The following night we lodged with the chief of the district of Afahiti. When he heard we were coming, he tried his best to secure a pig for a feast, but, fortunately, did not succeed in that effort. During the evening we called upon the native minister of the village. He was glad to meet us, and soon a dozen natives had gathered in; and while they lay around in a circle, smoking cigarettes, and manifesting no little interest in all that was said, Elder Read gave them a Bible reading.
The following day we made our way over rough roads and through many rivers and streams, till we had forded in all over eighty creeks since leaving Papeete and crossed on bridges nearly as many more. We did not stop everywhere that there was an opening, as time did not permit. “Haere mai te maa” (Come to breakfast), shouted one lady as we rode by. “My house is yours,” said one man on whom we did not find time to call.
At the village of Haitaa the people were quite reserved at first, but after a little took a surprising interest in our work. Here Elder Read gave them a Bible reading, as before, and, amid a lot of smiling faces and a shower of well wishes, we rode on to the next town. After a hard day’s journey over rough roads, which ran sometimes around the face of lofty cliffs far above the sea, and again over fertile valleys and across strips of sandy beach, we arrived at home, none the worse for wear, and deepened in the conviction that the Lord is certainly working for this people. We never saw greater interest manifested in the study of the word of God by any people who have not been born again.