THE ISLAND OF JAVA by Frederic M. Burr

Pacific Press Publishing Company · Oakland, California · Oct 22, 1894

FromSigns of the Times, Vol. 20, No. 50.

THE ISLAND OF JAVA.

By Frederic M. Burr

BATAVIA the beautiful, known throughout East as the "gridiron," on account of the heat of its climate, and considered to be one of the most unhealthful towns in the world, is wonderfully attractive. The streets are wide and well kept, and are shaded by the most luxuriant tropical growth. The stores and private residences stand back from the road in the midst of ample grounds or compounds, beautifully adorned with flowers and foliage. This of course is in the Dutch quarter. The native town is more sordid; but in this favored land everything is picturesque.

The canals that form the center of the principal streets, in true Dutch fashion, in which the natives perform their morning ablutions, as well as cleanse the family linen, have a very sluggish current; and this, in connection with the fact that the city is surrounded by marshes, is a sufficient explanation of its unhealthfulness. The general experience of this world holds true here. There is no Eden without its serpent.

The Hotel Nederlanden, a large, rambling, one-storied structure, with a spacious central court, is the last place in which one would expect to meet the decrees of fashion, and yet at the table d'hôte the ladies were dressed in a style that would have done credit to any European capital. These same ladies had appeared earlier in the day in a decidedly unconventional attire, and this rendered our surprise all the greater. They have learned to adapt themselves to the climate by keeping their heavier garments for the cool of evening. Even when making ceremonious calls in their carriages many adhere to the native costume,—a white jacket and a calico sarong, or skirt. The toes of their bare feet are thrust into gayly embroidered slippers that flap up and down as they walk. Girls of fifteen or sixteen appear on the veranda in the morning, and, indeed, until long past noon, in a sort of union costume such as young children sometimes wear with us when sleeping.

Notwithstanding these preparations for warm weather, the heat is not excessive. During our stay the thermometer only once reached 88 degrees, and then it was easy to find a refreshing breeze. It must also be remembered that this was in the height of summer. The 22d of December is theoretically the turning point of their warm season; but as a matter of fact the temperature is nearly the same all the year round. Lying about forty miles south of the equator, Java enjoys a never-ending summer. This uniformity, to be sure, is somewhat enervating to the system; but for those having the requisite means and time there is a remedy within easy access in the districts remote from the sea. It would seem as if the climate of the interior of Java was as near perfection as it is possible to discover. At Bandong and Garoet, situated 4,000 feet above the sea, we slept under blankets every night.—Frederic M. Burr, in Harper's Magazine.