p. 15 | A Few Hints on Wall Paper by L. A. HANSEN

Review and Herald Publishing Association · Takoma Park Station, Washington, D. C. · Nov 30, 1916

A Few Hints on Wall Paper

By L. A. HANSEN

L. A. HANSEN

It is better not to use wall paper if your walls will permit the use of paint. If the surface is smooth, and there are no cracks that cannot be properly hidden, it will be more satisfactory to paint. Health considerations, hygiene, and cleanliness are in favor of paint. The cost may be made as low as that of wall paper, or lower, especially at the present time.

A recent experience of my own prompts me to give a few suggestions on papering, hoping they may be helpful to others similarly situated. I could have saved time and labor had I known before I began the work, what I knew when I was through.

It is generally advisable to remove the old paper on the wall before putting on fresh. Disease germs and other objectionable matter are thus better gotten rid of. If the old paper is loose in places, it must be removed. The new paper is likely to loosen the old in other places. If for any reason you must do the work yourself, you need not regard it as overly difficult.

To remove old wall paper, wet it with boiling water, using a whitewash brush or broad paint brush. Apply to as much space as you can work while the paper is soft. If there are a number of thicknesses of paper, several applications of water will be necessary. The more water used, the easier is the work of scraping. For scraping use a broad putty knife, a large case knife, or a four-inch scraper such as may be bought at a ten-cent store. A small hoe with an even edge and the blade straightened, would be splendid. If the scrapings are allowed to harden on the floor, they will be difficult to remove.

After the wall is scraped, wash or wipe smooth of small particles. Apply a size made by dissolving eight ounces of glue in two gallons of water, and boiling over a slow fire. Glue burns readily.

Cracks and holes may be repaired with plaster of Paris. First cut away the edges with a sharp knife, slanting the edges in. For large spaces mix fine sand or sifted lime or both with the plaster. Small breaks may be easily repaired with the plaster alone. Mix a small quantity at a time, as it hardens fast. Adding flour paste or mixing with vinegar, will prevent rapid hardening. Paper pulp, mixed with thin glue, may be used for repairing cracks.

For living-rooms the plain papers are best, giving a quiet air, and serving to bring out in full relief the pictures on the walls. Next in preference are the two-toned papers. Large or striking figures should be avoided.

For the bedroom select a simple design, avoiding set patterns of unreasonable figures. Have thought for the possible invalid who might have to occupy the room, and who should not have occasion to let the mind chase through a labyrinth of confusing designs, constructing in his feverish mind various grotesque forms that distract and annoy. Vertical stripes make a room seem higher than it is. Large figures and dark colors make it seem smaller. Solid colors give the effect of enlarging the room. For a low room use a striped paper, running to the ceiling, placing the picture molding close to the ceiling. For a narrow room, or one with high ceiling, lower the picture molding twelve or eighteen inches, and let the ceiling paper run down to the molding.

Save some of the left-over pieces for patching. Do not cut paper when patching; tear it. A cut edge will show. To patch a broken place, expose a piece of the paper to the sun until it is faded to the same shade as the old paper. Lay the patch face down, apply paste, and when moist, scrape the edges to a thin bevel. Paste again, and apply the patch.