En Route to Honan, China
By H. W. Miller
WE reached Yokohama harbor, at noon, October 19. After being inspected by two Japanese physicians, we moved out of quarantine quarters, and anchored one-half mile from the coast. Then about fifty Japanese sampans rushed out, each trying to reach the side of our ship first. The Japs began to board our steamer from every quarter, bringing with them all manner of things to sell to the passengers, such as cakes, souvenirs, jewelry, paintings, etc. For the Chinese they brought two roasted pigs. These they readily purchased. The pig is roasted by putting a pole through it after it is dressed, and then slowly turning it round and round over a charcoal fire. They were cut up into small pieces. Each Chinaman grabbed a piece, and ate it greedily. Some soup was eaten with the pork. All the bowls were washed in the same pail of water. We were all looking very anxiously for Professor Field, and he came up almost before we knew it. How glad we were to see him, and to place our feet on dry land once more! Brother and Sister Burden also came on the vessel to see us. As Brother Burden could speak the Japanese language, he acted as our guide. We did not have long to stay in Yokohama, but were able to visit many points of interest. The fortresses are fine, and have ideal locations, but one is not permitted to take photographs of them. We arrived on shore at 1 P. M., and spent the first hour riding through the city in jinrikishas. Everything was interesting to us. The streets are narrow, but good. Some have no sidewalks. Where they are very narrow, they are nicely graded. The policemen are very polite, and maintain good order. The people and their customs attracted us first. The women wear a loose garment, not14made up, but draped around them. The children are dressed loosely, but always look neat. The mother carries the babe on her back, fastened in her clothing, and secured by her sash. She will do her washing with the child bobbing up and down on her back. The infant’s head is shaved completely. At the age of two or three years it is shaved only around the margins, the hair on the central part being left to grow. I tried to secure a picture of several children, but as soon as I turned my camera on them, they would turn and run. I hired a little girl to stand and pose for me. She had a baby on her back. Then two little girls came out, and I caught them with my kodak. The men wear broad-brimmed hats, and tight-fitting trousers reaching only to their knees, and some of them not so far. The rest of the leg is bare. They do not wear shoes, but a sandal, which has two straps attached to the wooden base. One strap fits over the large toe, and the other over the rest of the toes. When he goes to the store, the Jap must take off his sandals before he can enter, receiving a check similar to a parcel check. After he is through trading, he will claim them again. As we passed down the streets, we saw their one-story houses, with bark roofs and sliding windows, the latter closed at night, so that no ventilation is provided for. Everything in Japan seemed to be done backward to us. In the restaurant the kitchen is in front, the dining-room in the rear. In building a house, the roof is placed first, and propped up until the sides are made. In cutting wood the saw is made to cut when pulled backward. The fruits are oranges, persimmons, grapes, apples, figs, pears, and bananas. Much of it is placed on the market green. Peas are pulled when they are very small and undeveloped. Several varieties of beans are raised, three or four of which are very good. Rice and sweet potatoes are abundant, and the markets are well stocked with eggs. Peanuts are plentiful, and they are much larger and better than those in America. We bought them for two cents a pound, roasted. Apples were two and one-half cents apiece. Persimmons were four cents a dozen. Milk is scarce, and sells at ten cents a quart. Grapes are very poor. This is the month for the chrysanthemum, the national flower. Its stalks are from five to twelve feet high, and the flower is beautiful. The bridge works are equal to those in America. There are English settlements in all the Japanese towns, where American architecture is carried out. And even many buildings in the Japanese quarter are on this plan. At 5 P. M. we went to the dock, and took a launch for the “Empress of India.” We visited for a while on board the steamer. But as it was now late, Professor Field and company had to leave us. The visit was a very pleasant one, and long to be remembered. We learned that our church in Tokyo numbered fifty members. Ten were baptized last year. Our friends went home by railroad from Yokohama to Tokyo, a distance of thirteen miles. The fare is third-class, one cent a mile; second-class, one and one-half cents, allowing sixty pounds baggage; first-class, two cents a mile, eighty pounds baggage. If you have much baggage, it is cheaper to buy more tickets than to pay excess baggage. It was 10:30 P. M. before the vessel left the harbor, so we had a chance to look upon Yokohama in the night. There was a grand display of electric lights. The gunboats were signaling to one another by means of these lights. We retired for the night, having spent one of the most pleasant days of our lives. This old world is still filled with many things of interest.