A Journey in Northwestern Rhodesia
By W. H. Anderson
August 9. We made a very early start, and traveled a long distance. The country is covered with scrub brush. Signs of big game are abundant. I saw hartebeest and wild hogs; also the fresh tracks of buffalo. August 10. We could not travel far on account of the boy who had fever. He was some better, and the other carriers took most of his load. There was still plenty of game and birds. As we were short of food, I killed four guinea-fowl at one shot, and the boys ate them. The country is more open as one climbs the plateau. August 11. After a short walk in the morning we came to a nice pool of water, where we had a bath and did our washing. It was very refreshing. One has to be careful where he bathes in this country, as many of the deep pools contain crocodiles. We came out on the open prairie at noon. The soil is quite good here. There are also herds of big game. August 12. We arrived in Kalomo. I was soon comfortable at the home of Mr. Rangely, the magistrate. We had entertained him at our home in Southern Rhodesia, and he was glad to return the favor. He arranged for me to see the administrator the next day. August 13. I saw the administrator at 11 A. M. He said that the government had decided to give each missionary society a particular part of the country. The French Protestants have the upper Zambesia, or the Barotse Valley. The Primitive Methodists have the Mashukulumbwe country. The Jesuits have the country about Kalomo. They offered us the country to the north and east among the Batokas or the Batoka and Mashukulumbwe to the north. I decided to visit both places. August 14. I had a long visit with the district commissioner, whom I met two years ago. He gave me much information about the people and the Batoka country. I was glad to find a letter from my wife at the post-office. We left Kalomo in the afternoon, and made our camp about ten miles out. We were very short of food, as we came to no native kraals. August 15. We had our usual Sabbath service. In the afternoon we had a long talk on the experiences of David and Saul. We walked ten miles after the Sabbath. August 16. We had a long walk of sixteen miles. We could get no food, as there are no native kraals on the road. I shot some birds for the boys. We came to a white man's camp in the evening, and I bought some food for the boys, which they ate with a relish. The natives here live a long way off the road. A native does not like living on a main road. There are too many demands on him for food. He does not like to refuse a hungry man food, as he is naturally15very hospitable. But if he sees hungry men every day, his scanty store is soon exhausted. He seeks a remedy in moving four or five miles away. August 17. The carriers had no food, so we went on to a native kraal before breakfast. I was told that it was about eight miles to the village, but I found that it was twenty. We saw the fresh tracks of a herd of elephant that had crossed the road just ahead of us. We arrived at the kraal at 1 P. M., and were able to get a little food, but the water was bad. We rested three hours, and went on again in the evening. We traveled six miles, and made our camp for the night. We had no dinner, so we went to bed hungry. August 18. I awoke at three in the morning with severe cramps in my bowels, and a very bad attack of dysentery. I could sleep no more, so we started on again at daybreak. I soon came up with a donkey wagon in charge of Mr. Maddocks, a geologist for the Northern Copper Company. He kindly gave me a ride in his wagon to the next river, eight miles ahead. I was suffering intensely, and by noon I had a very high fever. I ate very little, and kept my bed all day. I had the boys make my bed away from the noise of the donkeys and dogs, and retired at sunset for the night. My fever was still high, and my strength was fast passing away. I thought that my time had come, and calling the boys to my bedside, I gave them directions as to my burial. This is the second time since I have been in this country that I have given directions as to what I would like to have done after I was gone. I told the boys to dig a grave and sew me in my blankets and bury me. Then they were to return home at once, and take a message to my wife and child. As I finished, we committed ourselves to God, and I went to sleep, expecting never to see the light of the morning. August 19. I slept fairly well during the night. My head was dull, and I could not think clearly. I still had a high fever. I learned from the natives that I was near the camp of Mr. Walker, the old hunter. I had often met him in Buluwayo, and he had invited me to call on him when I was north of the Zambesia. I was glad to accept his invitation. “My God shall supply all your need according to his riches in glory by Christ Jesus.” With the help of the boys I was soon in his tent, and he cared for me the next week, which I spent in bed. I slowly recovered my strength, and as soon as I was able, I started on again. As Mr. Walker had been hunting in this land for the past six years, he gave me much valuable information in regard to it. I found him the best informed in regard to the country of any man that I met. I told him what I wanted, and he directed me to several places that he thought would suit me. He kindly loaned me his aneroid, so I might know my elevation at any time. August 25. I left Mr. Walker's tent in the afternoon, and started for Monze's. As I was still weak, we could not travel very fast. We made our camp in a native field for the night. I must here describe our usual camp. It consisted of a high bush fence made circular, and about thirty feet in diameter. Inside of this all the loads were placed and the beds made. A quantity of wood was collected, and a good fire was made across the entrance. I had my bed just back of the fire. It was made by cutting two poles about seven feet long, and placing them side by side on the ground and about three feet apart. The space between them was filled with grass to the depth of about six inches. This made a comfortable mattress, on which the blankets were spread. A short log at my feet prevented the grass from working down into the fire. The carriers made their beds on either side. One of the boys was to keep up the fire all night. August 26. We walked twelve miles for the day. We traveled up a river, so water was plentiful. The country was very rough, and covered with scrub brush. We saw a large herd of water antelope. August 27. We had a long walk to the hot springs. We took the wrong path, and traveled eighteen miles to reach a point eight miles from our night camp. We remained at this place four days, looking over the country. There is some excellent land here, but the water is scarce. The government will not permit the ground to be pegged in the vicinity of the springs. The springs belong to a series extending from the Kafui to a point south of the Zambesia. I saw several of them. The water varies in temperature from the boiling point to simply warm. In some springs the water appears to be pure, while in others there are minerals. The natives have many traditions in regard to them, and they visit them regularly for worship. August 30. We walked eight or ten miles in the evening, and came into the wagon road eighty-five miles from Kalomo and fifteen miles from Monze's. There were hyenas about the camp all night, so I did not sleep much. I can not say that I enjoy being serenaded by three or four hyenas. The country is very rough, almost mountainous. August 31. We traveled the fifteen miles to Monze's. He is the chief of the Batoka nation. The first part of the journey was in the hills, and then we came out in the open, elevated, rolling prairie. We arrived at the kraal at sunset. It is a dirty Batoka village, inhabited by people, cattle, sheep, goats, dogs, fowls, and vermin. There is nothing except the large herd of cattle to indicate the rank of the chief. He received me very kindly, and after the usual exchange of presents,—he gave me a goat, and I presented him with a blanket,—I announced my mission. He said that he wanted a school for his people, and asked what he could do for me. I told him that a guide to show me the country would be very acceptable. He promised to send his son, and he was at my camp the next morning at daybreak. September 1. I looked carefully over the ground to the south and west, but found nothing that suited me. The combination that I desired was elevation, good soil, and proximity to the natives. September 2. I started very early to the north and east. I took my guide and two of my carriers with me. We traveled hard all day, but saw nothing that was desirable until about dark, when I came to just what I wanted. September 3. I had a good look around the spring and over the surrounding country in the forenoon, and in the afternoon I pegged a farm of five thousand acres on the Makel River directly east of Monze's kraal. I pegged about three miles of river front, so as to include timber and the fountain. This farm has six native kraals on it. It is the best farm that I saw in all my travels in the country. There is sufficient in the fountain to irrigate a good garden, and plenty of water in the river for stock. “The soil is black along the river, and of a chocolate color on the high land. The elevation is four thousand eight hundred feet. The natives grow corn, Kaffir corn, sweet potatoes, peanuts, ground nuts, beans, pumpkins, and a kind of vegetable marrow. I returned to my camp on Friday, and started for Kalomo on Monday. On the return I visited two other places that were suggested to me, but I did not think them so good as the place that I selected. On my arrival at Kalomo, I submitted my farm to the government for approval. They accepted it, only they said that part of it might be placed on the east side of the Makel River instead of the west side. The plan has to be submitted to the London Board of Directors for their approval. The government officials expressed themselves as glad that we are planning to enter the field, as the territory is nearly all taken up, and our plan of work pleases them better than that of any who are now working there. The directors are very much interested in the work of Booker T. Washington in America, and they have invited him to visit Africa in the interest of his idea of education. As we have some things in common with the great colored educator, it naturally appeals to them. An attempt is being made to have compulsory education of the natives between the ages of twelve and sixteen. I do not know what the outcome will be. I do know that the time has come for the gospel to be preached in all the world for a witness, and I believe that the time will soon come when there will be a memorial of the truth in Northwestern Rhodesia. I made a hasty trip home, visiting a mission on the Zambesia on the way. I arrived home, October 3, very tired, but otherwise in good health. My carriers could not keep up with me, so I left them behind, and they arrived nearly a week later. During my absence I had traveled three hundred miles by rail and about seven hundred miles on foot. I feel sure that as soon as the Mission Board can obtain the funds, the work will be opened in that once distant, but with the present railway facilities, almost home field.