The Third Angel's Message in Syria
By W. H. Wakeham
LEAVING Sidon, we started toward snow-covered Hermon; and three hours after leaving orchards yellow with luscious oranges, we were traversing fields of snow, greatly to the chagrin of our bare-legged muleteers. Not being able to get to our destination that night, we were obliged to stop at a small native village, the inhabitants of which were Moslems and Catholics. As we were wondering where we should find shelter for the night, Providence led us to a Catholic family, the father of whom had met Brother Zarub some time before, and had received from him some of our Arabic tracts. This man has the reputation of knowing more of the Bible than any other man in the village, and as a result is really a Protestant at heart. This family received us most cordially into their humble abode (the house consisted of one large room with two doors and no windows), and provided us with a bountiful meal and fairly comfortable bed. The entire family listened eagerly to the truth we presented. We left some more reading-matter, and urged them to walk in the light they had received. At Der Mimas, the next town we visited, we were detained five days by almost continuous rain and snow. Two brethren here are keeping the Sabbath, the result of Brother Zarub's labors, who was stationed at this place when the Sabbath came to him. These brethren were strengthened and encouraged by our visit, and we hope they will remain faithful to the end. While here we visited a Jewish colony situated near the headwaters of the Jordan River, and not far from a peak of Hermon supposed to be the mount of transfiguration, close by the village of Cæsarea Philippi. Here we found a real Christian Jew, one who does not think it necessary, in order to follow Christ, to give up the Sabbath of Jehovah. He is a teacher of Hebrew in the school of the colony and is trying in a quiet way to sow the seed of truth among his people. He is a German by nationality, but having lived in England for some time, he knows English well. He seems to be walking in the light as far as he sees it. He has read some of our tracts, and I promised to send him more. Leaving the snowy hills of Hermon, we came again to the seashore, and visited the site of the old city of Tyre, the former metropolis of Phoenicia. The old city is barren and desolate, a striking fulfilment of the sure word of prophecy. The new city is builded on what was formerly an island, but is now connected with the mainland by a narrow stretch of sand. Here we remained one day, visiting some interested persons, speaking the truth as opportunity afforded, and distributing some tracts. The population of the town is about five thousand, almost wholly Moslem and Catholic. A few families of Protestants live here, and13some English ladies are carrying on a mission school. From Tyre we traveled on mules to the village of Alma. This is Brother Zarub's native village; and the seeds of truth have been sown here. A few are interested, and one young man is keeping the Sabbath, but still holds onto that curse of the Orient, the cigarette. The people in most of these Syrian villages are very poor, and live under wretched conditions, especially in winter time. Many are in financial bondage to their religious leaders. It has been the policy of these men to loan the people money or rent them land under easy conditions, which make them seem benefactors. But let one of these poor people begin to keep the Sabbath, and immediately these overlords begin to draw the cords, so that their very existence seems threatened. The houses are dark and dismal in winter time, as few of them have any windows. Fires are built in one corner of the room, and the smoke gets out where it can. Men, women, and children live together under one roof with horses, cows, donkeys, chickens, etc., and many of these houses have but one room. Such articles of furniture as tables, chairs, bedsteads, etc., to say nothing of bureaus, commodes, and wash-stands, are usually conspicuous by their absence, to use a hackneyed phrase. Knives, forks, and spoons for eating purposes are considered superfluous. When eating, you must sit a la Turk on a mat or cushion. One or two dishes are placed before you on a small tray or mat, and bread in the form of immense griddle-cakes, eighteen or twenty inches in diameter and as thin as brown wrapping paper, is placed on the floor beside you. You tear off a piece of the paper-bread, wrap up a portion of the food from the dish before you, and put it into your mouth. If the food is liquid or semiliquid, as soup, milk, or kumiss, you form a piece of the bread into a small scoop and convey the food to your mouth, eating the improvised spoon, and then forming a new one for the next mouthful. If one were alone, it would not be so bad, but when he knows that a dozen curious eyes are watching every move he makes, ready to laugh at the least slip, one longs for a good English spoon with which to defy the gaping, impertinent crowd. From Alma we went direct to Acre, the Ptolemais of olden time, and the scene of the great Napoleon's defeat in modern times. This is still considered an important military post. Here we stayed only long enough to secure a carriage for Haifa, a rapidly growing town at the foot of Mt. Carmel. This ended our trip through Syria; for Haifa is in Palestine, and an account of the progress of our work in the holy land must be reserved for another article. Altogether, Syria is an interesting, though difficult field; but the third angel's message is firmly planted there, and we believe that it will grow until every soul shall hear the message, and the Lord's work be finished in righteousness.