Hygienic Cookery and Cook Book.
By Stephen N. Haskell
The importance of wholesome food and good cooking cannot be overestimated. Common sense teaches the farmer that if he has a likely Durham steer which he wishes to grow into full development of his breed, he must feed him with something besides bog hay. How much pluck and spirit will a horse get out of a ton of rye straw? Every man of intelligence should know that any food that tends to stimulate one portion of the system more than another will cause friction in nature's machinery, and cannot be well for the system; and it is because of this stimulating food, with indigestible masses of stuff, that is put into the human stomach—and a large proportion is made so by cooking—that we are a nation of dyspeptics to-day. Says Mr. Holland, “If I were to be charged with the special mission of degrading a nation in mind and body, stunting the form, and weakening in the same proportion the mental and moral nature, there is no way in which I could so readily accomplish my object as through food. No nation can preserve its vitality, and its tendency to progress, with a diet of pork and potatoes.” Nothing but grains, fruits, and vegetables, properly prepared, will do this. How important, then, that we have some guide in the manner of cooking, as well as to what should be cooked. There is no hand-book of practice which has more difficulty in gaining a reputation than a hygienic cook book. To cook well, not only requires practice, but some degree of aptness or adaptation in the culinary department. Any one can stir up meal and water, put it into an oven, and bake it; but it is not every one that can do this in a manner so that it will come out light, wholesome bread. Much depends upon the quality of the grain or fruits which are used. Much depends upon the oven in which it is baked. The matter of the fire is of no little importance, whether a steady heat is kept up, or whether the stove is to be cooled off from one to three times while in the process of baking; and good cooks think that the condition of the wood is a matter of some importance, whether it be wet or dry. Then the putting of the ingredients together in a proper manner has very much to do in cooking food so it will be palatable and wholesome. What I have here said, refers to cooking in general, but when applied to the hygienic method of preparing food, much more importance is attached to this matter. To introduce a new method of cooking, we not only have to meet all the general difficulties of the culinary department, but we are to meet the long-established habits of the people. To change customs which have grown with our growth, and become a part of our nature, will be found to be no small task. Food highly seasoned with pepper, salt, vinegar, and a thousand and one condiments which irritate the stomach, prevents digestion and causes dyspepsia. This course has created unnatural tastes and perverted the appetite. We also have the public sentiment against anything that takes people out of the old cart-ruts of usage; and were many of our good mothers and sisters to find themselves out of the old beaten track of mothers, grandmothers, and great grandmothers, they would think themselves on the road to ruin. It cannot be expected that any will use the recipes in a hygienic cook book, many of which may be wholly new to them, and make a success the first time. One thing can be set down as a fact, that all these recipes (to which we shall refer) have been used by proper persons and pronounced good. Therefore, if you do not make a success the first time, try again, and then again; and if any should think that food is tasteless without salt, do not condemn the book. Try another recipe with a little salt, and commence to educate the taste by degrees. The writer could once eat salt by the spoonful; but now most kinds of food taste brackish with salt. The reason is simply that the taste has been educated to do without salt. Were our old habits and ways all right, we should not need to reform. We are in an age of enlightenment and improvement. Old things pass away, new things take their place. It is by experiment and practice that the better way is learned. A man would be called a fool who would recommend old stage-coaches instead of the iron horse which will carry him fifty miles per hour through the country. It was a long trial of experiments that effected this change, and Fulton, who launched the first steam-boat, died in the poor-house. Therefore, we urge upon all first to settle these questions: Do we need a reform in our diet? Are the principles here set forth correct? Settle these points, then turn over a new leaf and remember the old song, “If at first you don't succeed, try, try again!” By thus doing, you will find that these recipes are practicable. The Hygienic Cook Book has been revised, and somewhat enlarged. It contains much practical, useful matter for every family. Having been acquainted with every hygienic cook book, as nearly as I can ascertain, which has been published in this country for the past twenty-five years, I can unqualifiedly say that this is the best of its size which I have ever seen. The remarks touching eggs, milk, butter, cheese, spice, sugar, wine, time for meals, change of diet, etc., etc., are worth the price of the book. The reader is not obliged to go through a long treatise to get at the gist of the matter, but the very pith of the truth is presented in a few words. Then comes a short chapter upon the art of cooking, philosophy of making wholesome bread, etc., which is valuable. The sixty recipes for making bread and cake, and over eighty recipes for general cooking, to say nothing of the three and one-half dozen puddings, and thirty varieties of pies; in all making over two hundred and fifty recipes for cooking, ought to convince the most fastidious that there is a supply in nature to furnish an ample variety without the ham, beef, or salt pork. Then comes the bill of fare for each month in the year, and each day in the week, where, to the old, oft-repeated question, “What shall I get for breakfast?” or “What shall I get for dinner?” is found a ready answer. The remarks upon drinks, and preserving fruits and vegetables, closing up with twenty-five “household hints,” make it a book which will be of value to any family in the country. We say to every person who is interested in these principles of reform, whether in the city or country, Get “Healthful Cookery,” published at the REVIEW Office, which will be truly a “Hand Book of Food and Diet.” Get one for your own use, and one to lend to your neighbors.