THE PILGRIM FATHERS OF ALASKA.
By Emma Hildreth Adams
THE island of Annette, the largest of the Gravina group, is about fourteen miles long and between three and four miles wide. Northeast of it lies the large island of Revilla Gigedo, with Loring, an important fishing station, its principal if not only port of call. On the west, with beautiful Clarence Strait intervening, stretches great Prince of Wales Island, with territory sufficient to form a respectable State. In the south Prince of Wales Island is occupied by communities of the Hydah people, who are distinguished for their fine carvings in slate, bone, gold, and silver. The greater portion of the island of Annette is studded with noble trees, chiefly of the pine and fir varieties, while about one-sixth of its surface is handsome valley land, level and fertile. The center is traversed by elevations between two and three thousand feet high. Viewed from the deck of an approaching steamer, the island is picturesque, and the added charm of its association with the Tsimpsean race renders it a point of great interest to most persons who make the summer trip to Alaska. The harbor, a delightful bay nearly semi-circular in form, and called Port Chester, indents the western coast. It opens into Clarence Strait through channels which wind among numerous small islands, producing some enchanting scenery. On this pretty bay stands New Metlakahla, the second tribal home of the civilized Tsimpseans. After the exodus of the Tsimpseans, August, 1887, there tarried at Old Metlakahla numerous aged and infirm persons, with some others, who shrank from the sacrifices and hardships incident to founding new homes in an unbroken forest, on foreign soil. Some of these, it has been said, no longer inspired by their indomitable leader, and perhaps deprived of the occupations which had engaged their time and thoughts, lapsed gradually into their old modes of life, and finally joined the ranks of their unreclaimed brethren. The eight hundred pilgrims, however, to whom civil and religious freedom were dear, had barely landed on the island of Annette before the tall forest began to melt away, and temporary shanties to spring up in its stead. And here again the imperial courage, ceaseless oversight, and remarkable executive ability of the missionary worked wonders for them. An immediate step after getting under shelter was the civil organization of the new community. This was effected, with Mr. Duncan sustaining, as before, the relation of chief executive. His aids in the administration of this class of affairs are a council of twenty native men, elected annually, and a police or constabulary force of twenty, on whom, Mr. Duncan asserts, they can depend for prompt and faithful service. The organized defenders of the little State are a military guard of thirty-five, if we are correct, while a well-drilled fire brigade looks after the preservation of property from the flames. Twenty church elders are charged with the religious concerns of the little flock. Music, on public occasions, is furnished by a band of twenty young men chosen for their attainments in this direction. "Thus," wrote Mr. Duncan, in March, 1891, "in one capacity or another, has every man whose heart and hand are ready to advance the public weal, an opportunity to be useful to the community." A more difficult task, and one which required nearly two years for its accomplishment, was the plotting of the land at Metlakahla so as to enable every householder to erect his permanent home on a corner lot. This was a privilege greatly desired by the most of them. The problem baffled their leader for some time, since not all the lots were equally valuable, and no man was willing to build behind his neighbor. Numerous were the plans devised and abandoned before a satisfactory solution was reached. Finally, time, patience, and a resolve to please all, succeeded, and now every cottage in Metlakahla stands on a corner. No man can exclude from his neighbor his full quota of sunlight and fresh air. A remarkable feature of the affair was that, during all this tedious delay, although anxious to erect better homes, the pilgrims dwelt patiently in their temporary shanties, exhibiting neither signs of distrust nor disposition to return to their native land. When not employed abroad, they continued to uproot the stumps, to extend the streets, and to make other requisite improvements on the village site. Meanwhile, perhaps because the wish was father to the thought, cruel villifiers of the enterprise prophesied deep disaffection and final defeat of the whole scheme. But the Tsimpseans bore the long strain admirably, and were stronger and nobler when it was over. Toward the close of 1889 one hundred and forty lots, eighty by ninety feet, and each a corner site, were assigned, and before Christmas eleven neat cottages were erected thereon and occupied. Of the festivities of that Christmas season Mr. Duncan wrote, in substance. It was a joyous time. Carols were sung around the village in the early morning hours. The young people decorated the streets with arches of evergreen and banners displaying Christmas greetings. Many were present at the morning service. We sung the Christmas hymn in Tsimpsean. "Let Us Now Go Even unto Bethlehem" was the subject of the address. The collection at its close was $133.35, given toward building a church. The story of the preceding Christmas thus runs (we abridge most liberally): It is Christmas eve. The houses are illuminated, but outside there is a noticeable stillness. Deputations from the council, elders, constables, brass band, and fire brigade drop in to interrogate the missionary concerning the proceedings of to-morrow. Late at night two artists are secretly decorating the temporary house of worship. Next morning, in the early hours, the voices of thirty young men are heard singing hymns of praise, some in English, some in Tsimpsean. At the eleven o'clock service the house is crowded with the well-dressed natives, singing heartily, worshiping with bowed heads, and paying devout attention to the preaching. Writing of the scene, Mr. Duncan exclaims: "It was a sight to gladden the heart of a Christian. What hath God wrought! What a transformation since I first saw this people in their savage attire, and heard their horrid yells!" Early in 1891 the council of Metlakahla took in hand the work of framing a new "declaration" for the people. The matter was felt to be one of no trifling import, since the instrument would really comprise the constitution of their little State, and thereto would every settler be compelled to subscribe. Below we transcribe the document. It will be seen that in some important particulars it differs from the declaration put forth at Old Metlakahla. A broader catholicity, a deeper loyalty, and a truer sense of paternal obligation, are features which we note particularly. We, the people of Metlakahla, Alaska, in order to secure to ourselves and to our posterity the blessings of a Christian home, do severally subscribe to the following rules for the regulation of our town affairs:—
1. We promise to reverence the Sabbath, to refrain from all unnecessary secular work on that day, to attend divine worship, to take the Bible as our rule of faith, to regard all true Christians as our brethren, and to be truthful, honest, and industrious.
2. To be faithful and loyal to the government and laws of the United States.
3. To render our votes when called upon to elect the town council, and to promptly obey the by-laws and orders imposed by the council.
4. To attend to the education of our children, and to keep them in school as regularly as possible.
5. To totally abstain from gambling, and from all intoxicants, and never to attend heathen festivities, nor to countenance heathen customs in surrounding villages.
6. To identify ourselves with the progress of the settlement and to utilize the land we hold.
7. Never to alienate, give away, or sell our land or building lots, or any portion thereof, to any person or persons who have not subscribed to these rules. By the last article, intemperance, and, consequently, nine-tenths of the crimes usually committed in such villages, are made forever impossible in Metlakahla. The temperance sentiment of the place is all-pervading. All the residents are total abstainers. Indeed, one need mingle but a few hours with the Metlakahlians to discover the fact that strong convictions and sentiments are characteristic of the race. In November, 1887, Mr. Duncan issued from its own press in Metlakahla, the first number of The Metlakahlian, a small eight-paged sheet of two columns each, devoted to the interests of the colony, and forming the fifth newspaper printed in Alaska. From that date, owing to the pressure of labors upon its editor, Mr. Duncan himself, the little journal has appeared at irregular intervals, but has, nevertheless, been the means of disseminating no little information concerning the industries, home building, educational affairs, and civil progress of his people. Enlarged, issued regularly and frequently, and with its list of themes extended, the Metlakahlian would greatly increase the intelligence of a people like the Tsimpseans. Numbers of the lower class, as well as of the more intelligent, read and speak English, and in that tongue the education of the children is progressing. Mr. Duncan knows the value of a good paper. He is aware also that such property demands money if it be made available.875The visitor to Metlakahla, sent ashore on one of the small boats of the steamer on which he is a passenger, will be landed on the gravelly beach, at the foot of the main street of the village. Making his way up the low, inclined shore, and taking the narrow plank walk, he approaches, first, the single store of the place, filled from front to rear with an astonishing assortment of general merchandise. Therein he will find every article imaginable, from a doll to a coal-oil stove. The keeper speaks English, is very polite, and does not object to customers. Opposite, on the right side of the street, is the stand from which the band of skilled musicians play on public occasions. The musical talent possessed by some of the Metlakahlians is surprising. Mr. Marsden, a young man of the race, now taking a college course at Marietta, Ohio, is a prodigy in this respect, and also a person of very great promise in some others. Mr. Marsden, it is said, readily plays a church organ with one hand while accompanying himself on a cornet held in the other. His remarkable ability is in nowise due to exceptional training, for such he has not had, but is simply the expression of a wonderful genius. Before going East Mr. Marsden was the instructor of the Metlakahla band. Acting in that capacity he has been known to step to the blackboard, in the auditorium of the building now used as a church, and to write thereon several bars of music which none of his pupils ever saw. Immediately they entered the room, took seats before the board, and, without the slightest hesitation, played the notes correctly. The lad who succeeded Mr. Marsden as organist in the place, also writes music readily, and is regarded as a youth of great promise. Returning now to the sidewalk, and proceeding a little way, the visitor comes to the residence of Mr. Duncan, a simple cottage commanding a view of the village, of the beautiful bay, and of the islands near. The front room is the man's workshop. Here he does most of his thinking, his planning for the thousand interests of his people, conducts his correspondence, which must be immense, studies for the pulpit, acts as peace-maker for irate men far and near, welcomes scores of strangers from calling steamers and from all parts of the world, and finally, when the bugle call sends the villagers to bed at night, reads awhile for mental rest and refreshment, and, perhaps, before seeking his couch takes a look at the star-illumined sky. The next attraction is the building erected for a Girls' Home, which offers accommodations for about twenty young women from fourteen to eighteen years of age. Next this stands the Boys' Home, commodious and comfortable, opened in the spring of 1890, superintended by Mr. and Mrs. McKee, teachers at Metlakahla, and affording shelter to sixteen young men who are taking industrial training. Then follows the fine day-school building, the last of the series, in form twelve-sided and twelve-angled, admirable for its acoustic properties, capable of seating six hundred, and, with the village church yet unbuilt, occupied as a house of worship. All these edifices line the left side of the street, overlook the greater portion of the village, and control charming views of land and sea. In the foreground of the vast picture appear some of the rude shanties put up so hastily in 1887. But there are also seen many comfortable cottages, quite artistic externally, with their porches and verandas, while within exist tokens of a growing taste and of nice home keeping. A recent letter from Mr. Duncan states that, during the past autumn and winter, great improvements have been made in the aspect of the settlement. Of the Alaskan towns Metlakahla is the third in size, being exceeded only by Juneau and Sitka. Up to date its chief industries are canning salmon and sawing lumber. Cabinet work has received some attention. A limited order of Metlakahltian handiwork has been received from Portland, Oregon. It is Mr. Duncan's purpose to introduce, as rapidly as possible, a sufficient number of occupations to employ his people fully on their own territory. As these pursuits multiply, trading relations will be established with outside points. Considerable quantities of salmon are now annually shipped from the place. During one of my visits to the island I had the pleasure of attending both the Sunday afternoon meeting, conducted by the native elders, and the evening service, at which Mr. Duncan preached in Tsimpsean. On both occasions the attendance was large for the summer population, numbers of people being absent at the distant fishing stations. The decorum could not have been exceeded by that of the most refined congregation. From the moment of entrance to the utterance of the benediction attention to the exercises was unbroken. As different parties came in from the great steamer anchored off the shore, not one of the worshipers turned even to cast a glance at the white strangers. It was evident that the Metlakahlians had assembled to worship God. Mr. Duncan receives neither for himself nor for his mission support from any missionary organization. He is bound by no denominational ties. Throughout the great archipelago, one hears only cordial commendation of his enterprise.