SKETCHES FROM THE ORIENT.
By H. P. H.
My first visit to the Orient was in Cilicia and Syria, in company with an Armenian as co-labourer and interpreter. Leaving Constantinople by steamer, we passed across the Propontis, now called the sea of Marmora, through the Dardanelles, past the plains of ancient Troy, and along the coast near the site of Troas, then around the cape past Assos, and between the large island Mitylene and the mainland to Smyrna. After a short stop and change of steamer, we continued south past the coast of Ephesus, and about two hours later passed Miletus, with Patmos just in view on the dim horizon to the west. Soon after losing sight of Patmos, we steamed past Coos and Rhodes, and the next day were running along the southern shore of Cyprus. As the steamer stopped a few hours at Larnaka, near the eastern extremity of the island, we landed and made a short excursion into the country. It was the end of March; vegetation was far advanced, and the waving fields of grain were already headed out. Our landing was as free as in any other British possession, no passport being required. But this was not a good preparation for our next landing.11A few hours' run to the north from Cyprus brought us to Mersina, the port of Cilicia, a view of which is given in the accompanying illustration. Like most ports in Turkey, there is no pier to which vessels can tie; they must anchor at some distance from the shore, passengers and cargo being landed with small boats, such as seen in the picture. This is usually the most interesting part of the voyage. As soon as the steamer appears in sight, many of these small boats put out to meet it; as a rule, they are not allowed to approach within a certain limit until a signal is given; they lie leisurely about, rocking on the waves till the given signal, when in an instant all is activity; all row as for life, each being desirous to reach the steamer first. While some remain below to manage the boats, others board the steamer to secure passengers and luggage. As they gather about the steamer, it is a wild, exciting scene, specially when the waves run high; they push and crowd and pull one another's boats, while shouting and scolding one another, almost coming to blows. While those that keep the boats below are disputing claims as to position about the steamer's ladder, another lively scene is enacted on deck. But little time is lost with the Franks, as the Europeans are called, for they generally pay the price asked, which is several times the amount paid by the natives; but with the latter, there is almost a pitched battle. First, the boatmen quarrel with one another about the passengers, and the passengers have a heated dispute with the boatmen about the price. It is not uncommon for these disputes to last half an hour, several engaging in the discussion at the same time, with fiery words and wild gestures, that would discount the best efforts of a criminal lawyer. Having engaged a boatman, our luggage was taken direct to the custom-house (the first large building in the center of the illustration), while we were taken in another boat to the long pier seen in the background. Here officers met us, and, besides demanding our passports, first examined our small hand luggage, and then began a thorough search of our persons. Some of the passengers looked on in indignant surprise, but all had to submit to this ordeal or return to the steamer. Every scrap of paper containing writing or printing, if no larger than a postage-stamp, was taken for inspection. My pocket Bible was also taken, and, not being returned before we left for the interior, and as I could find no other that I could read, I had to work without a printed Bible, and was thus forcibly reminded of the importance of having the Word in the heart. This rigid examination was because the Armenians had been specially active in this region, and some plot was suspected. The Armenians are quite numerous in Cilicia. In their best days this whole country was in their possession, and ever since they have looked to it with longing, as a land flowing with milk and honey. Not far to the northeast is Zeitun, the place so long held by the Armenians against the best efforts of the Turks. Our illustration is a good representation of the better Turkish towns. The buildings shown are the best in the place; the sheds and rubbish seen in the foreground represent the most common features of the town. Cilicia being a fertile plain, Mersina has quite a large trade in grain and fruits. It has the advantage of possessing one of the few railroads in Turkey, there being a line of about forty miles extending from Mersina to Adana; it was built by English capital; a principal station is Tarsus, the birthplace of the apostle Paul. The modern city is on the site of the old. Its ancient glory is buried from six to ten feet beneath the surface, and from its marble palaces, material is excavated for modern structures. Through Tarsus runs the Cydnus, a cool mountain stream in which Alexander the Great nearly lost his life by imprudently bathing at noonday, while heated and weary from the journey. Among the few visible remains of the ancient city is a huge tomb of Sardanapalus, or Assurbani-pal, the last great Assyrian monarch. A chief attraction of the modern town is Paul's Institute, an institution founded and maintained by American donations, for the education of young men for Gospel work. It is open to all classes and confessions. On visiting the school we were somewhat amused to see the students in calico gowns and with red Turkish caps on both in the study and class-rooms. It was the object of the founders of this school to provide a place in the native city of the great teacher of the Gentiles where young men might be fitted to go forth on the same mission as Paul. But while they did not comprehend the whole truth as Paul taught it, we are glad that these truths have of late been preached in his native town, and that a number have accepted them with joy, and, like Paul, are looking forward to the time when our Lord shall return with the promised reward.